Since watching the Sunday matinee movies in childhood such as Agatha Christie’s ‘Murder on the Orient Express’, I’ve always loved a ride on an antique train. The wooden seats and fixtures evoke adventure, with strangers mingling amongst misty horizons. So when the opportunity came up to do the Sulmona Transiberian Italy train ride in spring, I jumped at the chance to get on board!
This train ride takes you from Sulmona station to either Capracotta or Carovilli in Molise (you have the choice at stopping at either of these towns). The day is off to a good start at Sulmona train station. A folk quartet is playing on the platform evoking memories from my childhood in Australia of Abruzzese folk songs. The band is playing one of my favourites – ‘La Reginella’. It conjures up memories of a simpler time at family parties, with my uncle playing the fisarmonica whilst the children dance around and the women sing at their full capacity. The love of music and culture fused into one. The women sang with all their hearts – singing loud and high, as though their voices would carry all the way to the Abruzzese mountains.
The train ride takes you through the Majella National Park and provides spectacular mountain views particularly in the first leg between Sulmona and Campo di Giove. I would recommend that you book a seat on the left side of the train as that has the best views. The train doesn’t turn around – only the driver’s cabin changes to the other side of the train. There are 9 carriages with 24 people per carriage and the narrow wooden benches accommodate two people each.
As with most things, this train really is about the journey and not the destination! Intermittent tunnels open up to impressive mountain views. Glimpses of rocky outcrops and small villages can be seen amongst the opening of trees as the train snakes through the mountains and some 58 tunnels. The snow has melted uncovering barren plains which led a Russian traveller to comment that the countryside looked like the trans-Siberian landscape. Hence the nickname Transiberian Italy was born.
Throughout the journey, volunteer guides give snippets of history and background information about the train and are available for any questions. The Sulmona-Isernia trainline was inaugurated on 18 September 1897 and was considered at the time as an excellent example of railway engineering. Between 1943 and 1944, the railway was destroyed by the Allies as they were advancing from the south.
The first stop is Palena and a pop-up market awaits with food and craft stalls. The folk musicians who have climbed on board provide entertainment. There is also a small bar where you can get coffee and snacks. The one toilet has long queues (you can also go to the toilet on the train). A nearby rocky outcrop is home to some ruins. There’s not much else to see here.
After Palena, the train passes by Rivisondoli-Pescocostanzo station which is the highest station in Italy at 1268 metres. Castel di Sangro is the final train station before you enter the region of Molise. Molise used to be part of the Abruzzi but in 1963 it split from Abruzzo to become an independent region. After Palena, you have the option of stopping at Capracotta or Carovilli in Molise. You stop in these locales for approx. 4 hours.
We chose to stop at Carovilli which is a quaint, sleepy town. Expect to walk uphill to reach the main square and restaurants. I would recommend bringing your own food or booking a restaurant ahead of time as the town didn’t seem equipped to handle big groups. There is a lovely piazza with the standard old church – Church of Santa Maria Assunta built in the 13th century that also contains the relics of Santo Stefano del Lupo. If you have time, it is worth a walk to the nearby ruins of San Nicola Fortress. Unfortunately, we never made it there but a local told us there were spectacular views from the top. It’s about a 40 minute walk and around 2.6km.
Carovilli Fountain San Nicola Fortress
Just out of town in the aptly named Via del Fonte (Fountain Street), we came across an old disused fountain where the women of the town used to wash their clothes. This occurred in the Abruzzi region until the 1950s. I imagined my mother as a young girl on her knees, kneading the clothes into the hard rock and reflected on how difficult my mother’s life was growing up in poverty, compared to my privileged life.
The return journey takes 2 hours without stops to Sulmona. To pass the time, the folk quartet enter each carriage and sing a few songs. They also give out instruments to the passengers to assist with the music. Some of these instruments are native to Abruzzo and handmade. I get to play and for a moment, as the train rattles on, I am transported back to my childhood, to Sunday matinee movies and family parties.
For more information and to book tickets LeRotaie website